Here is the evidence supporting edpol's statements above. The upper molding was stuck in sealant, but pulled straight up without much resistance: Following the instructions in the shop manual, I first pulled the door weather strip out of the retainer, removed the retainer from the piller, and loosened the drip rail enough to pull it out of the way so I could reach the screws holding the outer windshield pillar molding on: It was relatively easy to remove them (not nearly so tough as on my Mustang). I wanted to remove the moldings to be sure to clean out any rust and stuff. As I mentioned before, my top was not stuck down under the moldings or drip rails, so it was easy to just peel the top back like a banana: Today I decided to pull back the top and see what's going on. Here's a link to a video showing how pros do it: ![]() This is really a two man job if you're going to replace it. And sometimes the paint looks "too new" for the rest of the car. Sometimes you find the roof is a different color. Sometimes, the paint is in good shape, and just needs to be compounded. It usually rubs off with a little solvent to soften it first. The good news is, if you decide not to replace the vinyl, the roof is already painted, and if you're lucky, all you need to do is remove the cement. In that case, the vinyl will have to be removed. The surface under the vinyl will most likely have to be sanded and painted where it bubbled, unless it bubbled because the vinyl separated from the backing. To repair, care has to be taken to remove the vuinyl without damaging it. ![]() For one thing, if memory serves me correctly, the windshield and rear window have to be removed. It can be repaired or replaced, but this is not as easy as it looks.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |